Grolsch

You hear a Grolsch before you taste it — the swing-top stopper opens with a pop that has been the brand's signature since 1897. Underneath is a Dutch pilsner carrying one of the oldest names in beer: Grolsch means "from Grolle," the old name of the town of Groenlo, where the brewing began in 1615.

That date makes Grolsch one of Europe's longest-surviving beer names, though production long ago moved to nearby Enschede. The famous beugel bottle endured for practical reasons — drinkers could reseal it — and by keeping the expensive closure while rivals switched to crown caps, the brewery accidentally created one of brewing's most recognizable packages.

Since 2016 Grolsch has belonged to Japan's Asahi Group, picked up in the great reshuffle of the global beer giants. It remains a fixture in the Netherlands, the UK, and beyond — where the pop of the stopper still does most of the advertising.

Clear gold with a sturdy head, and a touch more assertive than the average Dutch lager: fresh-cut-grass and herbal hop aromas over a bready middle, closing dry and gently bitter. The swing-top bottle keeps it lively. Drink it cool rather than ice-cold and the hop character actually gets to speak.