Mulligan's

Trading on Poolbeg Street since 1854, Mulligan's is the pub Dubliners name first when the talk turns to a serious pint of Guinness: unmodernized, unhurried, and long the haunt of the journalists who worked this corner of the city when the newspapers did. James Joyce set part of the Dubliners story 'Counterparts' here, and the roll of famous drinkers runs from John F. Kennedy to Seamus Heaney. Order a pint, find a scarred wooden table, and let it settle — that is the entire program, and it is enough.